How to Give a Dog a Pill

Welcome to our 200th post!! Today we'll take a look at what can be a very stressful part of pet ownership... getting your dog to take their medicine. At the Humane Society of Eastern Carolina, we have become medication administration experts.  Here are our tips to taking the stress out of giving meds.

Go undercover!

Hide the pill in anything and everything.

Pill Pockets:
When we have them donated, Pill Pockets are the easiest and fastest way to give meds.  Pill Pockets are soft, smelly, pliable treats with a hole in the middle.  You just stick the tablet in the middle, close the Pill Pocket around the tablet, and feed it to your dog as a treat.

Peanut Butter:
Peanut butter is our second line of defense.  We take a spoonful of peanut butter, preferably crunchy, smush the tablet in the peanut butter, and then let the dog lick the peanut butter off the spoon.  You can also transfer the peanut butter to your finger if the tablet gets trapped in the well of the spoon.

Make a “meatball”:
Form a meatball made from wet dog food, stuff the tablet into the middle and voila!  You have a medicated meatball sure to be scarfed down.

Hot dogs:
Slice a fully cooked hot dog into ½” thick slices, push the tablet into the middle of the slice and feed it to your dog.

Other suggestions:
Our staff has found other undercover solutions for their foster dogs and/or dogs at home, including:

• Hiding a pill in store bought cheese cubes
• Hiding a pill in fig newtons
• Making tiny peanut butter, cream cheese, mashed banana, butter, or combination thereof sandwiches with bread or crackers.

Tip: Go undercover before meal time for best results

Third time’s a charm

Does your dog get suspicious any time you give him an undercover treat?  Try this technique!

Have three of whatever type of undercover treats.  Let’s say you have cheese cubes.  Take out three cheese cubes, putting the medicine in the third one.  Feed your dog the one cheese cube.  He might search it, and then eat it, satisfied nothing is hidden in there.  Then give him the second cheese cube.  Now he’s starting to trust you.  Give him the third (and medicated) cheese cube.  He’ll be so excited with the game of getting lots of treats, he won’t even notice there’s a pill in there.  This is particularly effective with dogs who like to catch treats in the air. 

Fedicate

Does your dog lick her bowl clean?  Take advantage of her joy for meal time and add her medicine to the bowl.

You can use any of the “undercover” methods and simply add the hot dog slice, meatball, etc to her food bowl.

Another great tip is to mix wet dog food (one with gravy works best) or broth to the dog’s kibble, drop the pill in, mix all around and watch your dog happily lick their bowl clean.  If adding broth to the food bowl, warming the broth slightly will make it smell even more enticing.

*Be sure to watch your dog while fedicating to be sure the dog actually eats and swallows the pill.

And if all else fails…

It’s time to roll up your sleeves and “pill” your dog.  Here’s a video demonstrating how to “pill” a dog:



What tips do you have for giving dogs medication?

Summertime Safety Pt 1: Dogs and Cars

Summer is coming, and we’ll be in search of ways to beat the heat. But don’t forget it’s up to us to keep it cool for our pets.  With fur coats and no sweat glands, dogs can overheat quickly, often with fatal consequences.

While it’s tempting to leave a furry friend in the car while running a quick errand, think again – and don’t do it!  Either leave your buddy at home, or take a friend or family member to wait in the car, keeping an eye on the temperature and perhaps going for a short stroll.  Even leaving windows open a crack won’t provide enough ventilation on a hot day, and curious dogs have been known to get their heads wedged in car windows. They can also escape if the window is open too widely, or even bite people through the crack.

On a 78 degree day, temperatures inside a shaded car can reach 90 degrees - and that shoots up to 160 if the car is in the sun! Most experts recommend that if the air temperature is 60 degrees or more, your pets should stay at home or come into the store with you, if allowed (and that goes for your kids too). Some people try to get around this by leaving the engine and air conditioning running, but this is not fail-safe. If the engine overheats or the air conditioner malfunctions, the animal is in just as much peril as before.

It's also not a great idea to let your dog ride loose in the bed of a pick up truck. The hot metal can scorch the dog's paws, sudden turns or stops can cause it to tumble around and potentially harm itself, and no matter how well trained, any dog might jump out at a stop light or in a parking lot.

This is not going to end well.

Greenville Animal Control officers receive 20 to 30 calls each summer, and will respond quickly to remove a dog from a hot car.  Temperatures can rise to 120 degrees in less than 20 minutes, and officers will break car windows in order to save an animal if the owner cannot be located immediately.  Criminal penalties can include fines and up to six months in jail.

It’s up to all of us to prevent tragedy by keeping our pets out of hot vehicles, and by looking out for those locked up by negligent owners. Call police if you see a dog in distress. Greenville Animal Control can be reached at 252-329-4387, or, in an emergency, 252-329-4300.

This summer, stay safe and enjoy the weather – and make sure your pet does, too!

Originally posted 5/29/12

Pet Vaccinations

Whether you’re a first time pet owner with a 7 month old or an experienced pet veteran with an old

companion, there is always a lot to learn when it comes to pet vaccinations. Throughout your pet’s life, there will most certainly be necessary vaccinations to ensure their health and wellbeing.

Newborn kittens and puppies have plenty of threats lying ahead of them and a few inexpensive will help to prevent a great deal of worry down the road. The threats for dogs include; Rabies, Distemper, Canine Adenovirus, Parvo, and Coronarvis. Luckily there is an all-inclusive “5 in 1” shot to eradicate these threats. Felines will need to have a series of shots called, DRCC/FCRCP, covering; Feline Distemper, Rhinotracheitis, Calicivirus, and Chlamydia. This should be followed up a few weeks later with a Rabies shot. The DRCC/FCRCP is similar price-wise to the “5 in 1” shot summing up to cost around $150-$200.

In addition, your pet will need regular medication to prevent heartworm disease. We suggest asking your veterinarian about an ideal schedule for preventative treatment for heartworms, which can be a very serious disease for pets.

Scheduling all vaccinations is a fairly easy process, however, it is key that you stay on top of the shot schedule recommended for your pet. A good deal of shots require booster shots that should take place weeks or even years after the initial shot to ensure the effectiveness of the vaccine. The best way to do this is by placing the dates on your calendar far ahead of time maybe with stickers or special colored markings.

Pet vaccination is not only beneficial to your pet but can also directly affect the people and like animals that are in direct interaction. For this reason, many dog parks, groomers, and boarding facilities (doggie and kitty hotels) require to see that your pet received certain vaccinations. These records are simple signs that your pet has undergone the necessary protocol and are fit to be in a public/social pet setting. Typically the records are easily accessed at your vet’s office or through a website.

How to Get Rid of Pet Smell

We all love our pets very much. And we do anything to make them happy. But sometimes we don’t love how our pets smell (or the smells they leave behind).

Don't be defeated by stink!

The first thing to do to combat smell is to increase cleaning frequency. Scoop the litter box daily, and
change the litter once per week to avoid that catbox smell, washing out the box each time. Wash pet bedding weekly, as smells linger in fabric. You may be able to isolate the bad odor to a favorite couch or pillow, which can be cleaned with particular care.

Ok, but maybe you've tried that. You’ve tried everything – from air fresheners to frequent cleaning to containing your furry friend to one room in your house. Nothing has seemed to get rid of the smell!

There are multiple things that can be causing your dog or cat to have a lingering smell. Some of these include bad breath, frequent flatulence, health problems such as kidney disease or diabetes, infected ears or anal glands, or simply just not having a bath in awhile. Some of these odor causing problems can be cured by remembering to bathe your pet frequently. There are special pet shampoos available that get rid of odors, not just cover them up. Remember to dry with towel or hairdryer (on low) because no one likes the smell of wet fur. If you continue to give baths but are still stuck with the smell, make an appointment to see your vet. There may be something wrong that you don’t even know about.

Grooming your pet is just as important as bathing. Removing knots and tangles in your pet’s fur should be done gently. Depending on the length and type of fur, you’ll want to find the perfect brush or comb. Get into a habit of brushing once a day, especially with animals that have longer fur. Back-comb to help remove more loose hairs; a wet comb can help to pick up more loose material.
Additional cleaning should be done along with bathing and grooming. Clean your pet’s ears with special solutions. Waxy build up may attract ear mites. Follow the instructions on the package of specialty pet ear cleaners. Don’t forget about their teeth as well. Just imagine how bad your breath would be if you didn’t brush for months on end. Click here for our previous post about doggy dental care.

Diet is not only an important part of our pet’s health, but what you put in their mouths also has an effect on how they smell. Avoid feeding your dog: chocolate, onions, grapes, raisins, tomatoes, avocados, nuts, and foods containing caffeine or xylitol! These can be harmful and poisonous to your dog. Corn should not be the main ingredient in your pet’s food, neither should soy. Check your labels. Most dogs and cats are lactose intolerant (as are most adult mammals). If you're adding anything to your pet's diet that includes lactose, flatulence may well be the end result. When switch your pet’s diet, do so gradually; three days is a good grace period –reduce the old food by a third each day.

For the smell that just won’t leave your carpet or furniture, try using a mixture of general household items. Many people will tell you to try white vinegar and water or baking soda, but this tends to only mask the smell for a week or so. Your best bet is to use hydrogen peroxide (or buy the premade deodorizers at your local store; anything with enzymes in it will work). In a spray bottle, gently mix 1 quart hydrogen peroxide and ¼ cup baking soda. Mist the stinky spot and let dry, repeat two or three times. If there’s any residue left behind you can vacuum that up. Spot test on fabrics first. To maintain fresh scent between cleanings, sprinkle baking soda on the carpet, let sit fifteen minutes, then vacuum.

Sometimes a good smelling home starts with a good smelling pet!

Flea and Tick Season 2013

It's that time of the year again... flea and tick season is upon us.

Or did it ever leave? Many fleas and ticks are capable of surviving our cold season, and though this winter was slightly colder than the last, it's still time to consider your plan of attack. We'll look at the pests looking to hitch a ride on your pet, and how you can prevent it.

Cat flea

The flea species that live on cats and dogs spend their entire adult lives on the pet, and cannot survive more than a few days without a host. Signs of fleas include little black specks in the fur known as "flea dirt," as well as the actual bugs themselves. Adult fleas are very small, about 1-3mm, and can jump as high as thirteen feet. Flea infestations are uncomfortable, and if left untreated, can cause flea allergy dermatitis and anemia. Fleas can also transmit tapeworms.

Flea on finger

Flea dirt

There are several species of ticks living in North Carolina. You can read more about them here. Like fleas, adult ticks feed on the hosts' blood, though unlike fleas, they do not spend the entirety of their lives on the host, and can survive for several months between feedings. Several diseases can be transmitted by ticks, including Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever, Lyme Disease, and Ehrlichiosis. If any unusual symptoms are noted after you or your pets are bitten by a tick, seek appropriate medical attention.

Three different species of ticks

Fully engorged embedded dog tick

But don't worry, you can decrease your pet's risk - and your own risk - for attracting these pests. In order to do this, you need to keep fleas and ticks off of your pet, out of your home, and out of your yard.

Keep pests off your pet 

To avoid ticks, stay away from their natural habitat of shrubs and long grasses by remaining on paths and roads. Humans can layer their clothing and tuck their pants into their boots. Wearing light colored clothing makes ticks easier to spot. If your pet has been exposed, check your buddy carefully, making sure to look everywhere, including behind the ears and under the collar. (And check yourself as well.) Many insect repellants are effective against ticks, but read labels carefully and do not use repellants on animals unless the label specifically indicates that it is for pets.

Most insect repellants do not work against fleas. There are many methods available to protect your pet against fleas, which include flea collars, topical treatments, and even pills. Some of these are also effective against ticks. Ask your vet to find out the preventative measure that is best for your four-footed family. You will most likely find that one of these methods works best. Don't be afraid to try another method if the first doesn't work.

 

Keep pests out of your house

Simply vacuuming your home regularly can significantly decrease a pest infestation, especially if you have carpets. Vacuum couches and floor cushions as well, and launder your pet's blankets and other fabric items. If you have a vacuum with a replaceable bag, throw the bag away after use. Some people choose to keep pets off furniture, especially beds and couches.

There are also more serious methods for dealing with a flea and tick problem, including pesticides. Seek an expert opinion before you result to treating your home with pesticides, as these can cause health problems for you and your pets if they are not used appropriately.

Keep pests out of your yard

Frequent mowing and yard upkeep helps to cut down on the long grass that fleas and ticks love to live in. Keeping the yard well-watered can actually drown pests. There are also several commercial pesticide sprays that can be applied to your yard. Again, whenever you use pesticides, it's best to do so with expert support and assistance.

What to do if your pet - or you - already has a pest problem

The first step is to get rid of the immediate problem. For a flea infestation, your vet may prescribe a medication which will kill any fleas. A good bath will also get rid of pests - there are commercial flea shampoos available at your local pet store, though many people use any liquid soap, including dish soap. It is a good idea to treat all animals in your home. Your vet will also recommend that you begin a regimen of preventative treatment.

If you or your pet has an embedded tick, don't just yank it out. You're likely to leave the head behind in the skin, which can cause infection. Here's another couple of don'ts: don't apply petroleum jelly or cleaning fluid and don't hold a lit cigarette or match near the tick. These home remedies will not cause the tick to withdraw from the skin and may make it more difficult to remove the tick intact.

The best way to remove a tick is to use tweezers (or a tissue) to firmly grasp the tick's body. Without twisting or jerking, pull steadily and slowly straight out until the tick is removed. If the tick's mouth parts break off in the skin, remove them as you would a splinter. Wash the bite with soap and water and apply an antiseptic. Note the date of the bite and save the tick - keeping it in rubbing alcohol is best. If you or your pet develops symptoms that could be due to a tick-borne disease, your doctor or vet may want to inspect the tick to determine the species. (Not all species of tick carry disease.) The chance of disease transmission from a tick bite is low, but it's a good idea to be prepared just in case.

How to remove a tick

After the fleas and ticks are gone, complete the other steps in this post to prevent or eliminate pests in the future. There are many organic and natural preventatives and remedies that claim to help control fleas and ticks on the pet, in the home, and in the yard, and to treat infestation once it occurs. If this is a concern for you, be sure to ask your vet about these options as well.

These pests are a pain, but with a little bit of preparation, you can rest easy this flea and tick season.

 

 

 

 

 

Originally posted in April 2012

Seizure Disorder in Cats and Dogs

by Beau Dove

In the middle of September 2012 my 9-year-old yellow lab passed away. This event led to some of the saddest days that I have lived in my young life and I still feel some of the shock of his passing. Although I didn’t want to believe the day would ever come, I had definitely been worrying about it. for months. He had not been acting like himself… He wouldn’t respond “walk” or “chow-time” the way he once did and his overall aura seemed to be contained into an ever-dimming idle position.

It all started one night after a family dinner…  My little brother yelled from outside where he found my dog in a helpless state where he seemed to be having a seizure! I rushed outside with the rest of the family to find him foaming and panting heavily short for breath. My brothers and me picked him up (all 100 pounds of him) and placed him in the back of the family truck as we rushed towards the Vet.

At that moment, I was frightened and overwhelmed by how sudden his health had shifted. My dog would never fully recover from that night and eventually, the re-occurring seizures took his life one night while he was asleep. That night, I learned about the fear and helplessness that overcomes someone when their pet is having a seizure. It may be an unfamiliar and quite scary sight, but the best thing for owners to do is remain calm and aware. There are not too many things that can be done to prevent or alleviate the situation but, from my experience, stay proactive and follow your best nursing instincts.

According to VCA Hospitals website, seizures are one of the most frequently reported neurological conditions in dogs. The scientific term for seizure is "ictus". A seizure may also be called a convulsion or fit and is a temporary involuntary disturbance of normal brain function that is usually accompanied by uncontrollable muscle activity. An owner may be confused upon seeing a seizure for the first time. Seizures can be isolated to particular limbs or regions of the body, or they may be grand mal seizures, characterized by collapse with the legs sticking rigidly out.

Within that realm, “epilepsy” or “epileptic seizures” are the most common form that plague canines. The main cause for seizures with felines is interestingly acute poisoning from things like household cleaners. There are many causes of seizures. Idiopathic epilepsy, the most common cause of seizures in the dog, is an inherited disorder, but its exact cause is unknown. Other causes include liver disease, kidney failure, brain tumors, brain trauma, or toxins.

Now that we have some background, what are the remedies and cures (if any) for this condition? At a most basic level, you are your animal’s protector and provider. But what can you do to help them when they begin convulsing and go into that truly uncontrollable state? For most cat and dog owners, their first experience with a seizure is met with utter confusion and helplessness. Pharmaceutically, there are medications available for the prevention or reduction but there is little to do at that moment when the episodes occur.

The best that can be done at that point is a damage control or prevention of further injury. It's important to understand that especially in dogs, epilepsy can be well controlled. It is important to work with the vet to find a medication regime that reduces the number of seizures, and to try and identify triggers, such as stressful events.

During one of my dog’s last walks with my brother, he had a seizure. Thankfully, my neighbor (a vet assistant and former farm girl) knew a ton on how to get through this type of episode. The two of them laid him on his side and while my brother was petting him (which may have been more to comfort him that the dog) my neighbor went inside to get a cool wet towel to lay over my pet’s torso. She instructed my brother to remain calm and assured him that he would recoup soon.

Usually during these episodes of brain misfiring, the animal has little if any awareness of their surroundings or current status. Once my dog recouped, gained his footing, and check back into reality, the helping neighbor instructed my parents to take him in for blood work so that we may find some root to his reoccurring epileptic episodes. Although we never found in solid answers in the blood work, I believe it is always an appropriate means of action to understanding your pet’s health. Every seizure seems to be different, some cats and dogs live for years only to be haunted by episodes sparsely while others may experience them daily or may only start up due to an activity, event, or trigger.

If your cat or dog has a seizure, don't panic. The episode should last less than two minutes. (If it goes on for longer, get the animal to the vet right away.) Make sure that your pet is seen by a vet within the next day or so, in order to make sure that your pet is on the right treatment program to manage this condition. Some animals have only one seizure. Others will go on to have multiple episodes during their lives. But with the right treatment, this condition is often manageable and will not necessarily impact your pet's quality of life.

Running With Your Dog

Just as the percentage of overweight Americans increases, so does the percentage of overweight dogs. It is estimated that 40-45% of all U.S. dogs are either overweight or obese – that’s about 35 million dogs! Similarly to humans, the best way for dogs to lose weight is to focus on diet and exercise. So what better way to get your dog in shape than to focus on getting yourself fit as well. Find an activity that you both enjoy and can benefit from – such as running.

Dogs love to run, it is in their bones. And they make a great running partner. They won’t care about the number of calories burned, or how fast/far you run, or what the weather is like. They’ll just be happy to get outside with you and be active. If you’ve been running for a while or are just looking to start, getting your dog involved is one of the best motivators. Once you get into a routine, you’ll feel obligated to not let your partner down, even if you’re not in the mood – the guilt of depriving your best friend of a favorite activity will make you never want to skip out.

Running with your dog should start with some basic training. The first step is to have your pooch trained and comfortable on a leash. It is recommended that you have a four-foot to six-foot leash and a snugly fitting flat collar to keep your dog safe at your side (a harness is also an option, but may cause chafing on longer runs). When running with your dog you’ll want to keep a few things in mind: you should be able to hold the leash while keeping your arm bent at your side in a normal running position and unlike a normal walk, you’ll want your dog’s front feet to be even with or slightly behind yours. Avoid straightening your arm and allowing your dog to get ahead of you.

When starting out, slower is better. If you or your dog (or both of you) are new to running gradually ease into a running program and begin with alternating walking and running for brief periods. Try walking for 2 minutes followed by jogging for 2 minutes throughout the entirety of your normal walk. The generally accepted guideline for increasing your running mileage is not to exceed a 10% increase (in either time or distance) a week.

As with any kind of exercise, there are a few things to be mindful of. If you need water during a run, you should provide your dog with same number of water breaks. Monitor your dog closely during the run. Watch out for signs of fatigue, pain, or overheating. If your dog begins to pant excessively, slows down, or refuses to continue, stop running. NEVER put your running goals ahead of your dog’s well-being.

Think about the terrain you are running on. Paved roads will toughen your dog’s pads and should be broken up with dirt roads or trails (which are better on your joints as well). Try finding locations where you can run in the street or on the pavement, while your dog can run mostly on grass. The Green Mill Run Greenway, South Tar River Greenway, and River Park North are great local places to take your pooch for a run.

It is suggested that all dogs should be a year or older (with closed bone growth plates) before any rigorous activity. Older dogs and overweight dogs will need different training programs than younger healthy dog. Check with your veterinarian for more details.

On March 17, HSEC will sponsor a 5K in conjunction with the annual Canine Crawl. Dogs are welcome to run in the 5K, but we have some rules:

1. Do NOT bring your dog if he/she is younger than SIX months of age and/or is not fully vaccinated.
2. Do NOT bring your dog if she is in HEAT.
3. Have your dog wear current ID and rabies tag (or bring rabies certificate)
4. Even if you are not thirsty, be sure to let your dog have plenty of access to water. Water will be provided.
5. Keep your dog on a 6-foot or shorter leash at all times. No dragging dogs during the race.
6. Please make sure your dog has been conditioned to run the 5k. If your dog does not run regularly, the 1 mile walk may be a better option for you and your dog.

Check back to receive some 5K training tips and see why some of our own HSEC dogs could be your prefect running partner.

Happy Halloween!

Originally posted on 10/30/2011.

Thanks to everyone who came out to our Howl-O-Ween event and helped to make it such a success!

Keeping your animals safe during Halloween requires just a bit of extra forethought. But by following these thirteen easy and common-sense suggestions, you can make sure that Halloween is fun and stress-free for every member of your family.

1. Many children can be frightened by overly friendly dogs, and the door opening and closing provides a great opportunity for curious pets to slip outside. Unless they are extremely well behaved, don’t allow your pets to come to the door with you. Instead, keep your dogs and cats in a quiet, secure room with food, water, litter, toys, and a comfortable place to relax.

2. If the sound of the doorbell is frightening or stimulating to your dog, consider taping a sign over your doorbell asking trick-or-treaters to knock instead.


3. Urban legends suggest that cats - and black cats specifically - are in danger of being targeted by violence during late October. In reality, the risk of increased danger has been exaggerated. However, it certainly won’t harm your indoor/outdoor cats to be kept inside around Halloween. Most cats won’t be thrilled to be outside amidst the chaos of trick-or-treating anyway.


4. Chocolate is toxic to both dogs and cats, due to the presence of Theobromine and, to a lesser extent, caffeine. Both compounds are stimulants that can cause nausea, vomiting, and even death. Keep candy bowls out of your animals’ reach and make sure your kids’ goody bags are also untouchable. Some components of sugar-free candies are toxic as well. If your pet has ingested something and you’re in doubt about whether or not it’s safe, call your vet.


5. Decorative corn and pumpkins can also cause stomach upset if consumed, and these decorations should be kept in areas where your pets can’t access them.


6. Animals should be supervised around decorations. Ensure that your pets aren’t nibbling on wires or other trimmings. Do not leave animals alone with lit candles.


7. Having a party? It’s always a good idea to keep your pets out of the action in the same quiet room described above.


8. This is an obvious one, but do not feed pets alcohol or other intoxicants.

9. Pet costumes are adorable! But before you take your dog out on the town, try on the costume and make sure that it’s comfortable for your pet. And if your animal really doesn’t want to wear it, don’t force them. 


10. While your pet is wearing a costume, keep an eye on them to make sure that they are safe - that they aren’t eating the costume, that they can see properly, and that they remain comfortable. If in doubt, take it off.


11. Some dogs will love to come trick-or-treating, while some will not enjoy the fuss and commotion. If your dog accompanies you, they should be properly leashed and should act like good citizens - no barking or jumping on kids.


12. It’s a good idea to have reflective patches on your children’s costumes so that cars can see them. Similarly, put reflective patches on your dog’s harness, collar, or leash if they come trick-or-treating with you.


13. Whether they are staying inside or coming along, dogs and cats should all wear proper identification with your contact information, just in case they wander off. Take this opportunity to look into ID microchips as well. This is a tiny electronic ID inserted under the pet’s skin. They are relatively cheap, painless, and can can help reunite you with your pet if they become lost. Ask your vet for more info about ID microchips.




And don’t forget to have fun! Happy Halloween from HSEC!

Keeping Cats Indoors

When you adopt a cat from the Humane Society, we strongly suggest in most cases that you keep your new feline friend indoors. Sometimes, potential adopters are puzzled by that requirement – after all, aren’t cats just fine, or even happier, outdoors?

It’s a cold, cruel world out there for cats, and indoor cats have been found to live as much as twice as long as their outdoor counterparts. Many dangers lurk, and although a cat may seem street-smart, that’s no guarantee against some of the common risks, such as being hit by a car or becoming prey to a coyote, hawk, or aggressive dog. Even the sweetest pet can get into a fight with another cat roaming the streets, risking injury or infection.  Regular immunizations will protect against rabies, but there is no vaccine that can protect 100% against FIV (feline immune virus) or FeLv (feline leukemia), two diseases commonly spread among outside cats, especially ferals.

Pet owners can experience tragedy when the cat is poisoned, either intentionally by a neighbor who hates cats and sees them as nuisances, or unintentionally by lawn chemicals or substances they may find when visiting a garage. Cats may be caught in animal traps, or abused by cruel and disturbed individuals. 

Visiting cats may also become problems in the neighborhood.  Mistaking a child’s sandbox for litter and leaving odors behind in favorite spots will probably not be appreciated. And the birds, chipmunks and squirrels that your cat may proudly present at your doorstep mean the unnecessary death of wildlife in your area. Cats are a major predator of small birds, mammals, and reptiles, and can even accelerate extinction in at-risk species.

Last, but not least, cats may bring along wildlife of another kind – fleas!  Outdoor cats can become infested, putting your carpet, upholstered furniture and bedding at risk.  Not a pleasant experience for you or your cat.

Indoor cats can be perfectly happy perched by a window or door, watching the world and all its dangers go by. Read our post for tips on how to keep them from getting bored.

A good pet owner needs to be educated about the risks of allowing a cat to access the outdoors. These risks can in some cases be minimized, but they can never be eliminated and should not be ignored. There is no doubt that the safest place for your kitty is indoors.

Thunder Phobia

by Beau Dove

I have often wondered why the roll of thunder shoos the most fearless, ferocious, and daring canines into hiding. Surely, I have been guilty of jumping a time or two when that ominous storm comes knocking at my door but never have I cowered quite like a dog does during these noisy sessions. Dogs will scurry under beds and seek haven in closets as if they have some higher insight into the depths of a storms danger. Throughout this post, I will look to gain reasoning and possible solutions for this all too familiar scene.

The weather channel website (weather.com) states; “Storm phobias are one of the most common behavioral problems dog owners face, but their cause is not entirely clear. Behaviorists are not yet sure what part of the storm frightens dogs most, whether they're reacting to lightning flashes, the sound of thunder, wind blowing around the house, or the sound of rain on the roof. Some dogs even start to pace and whine half an hour or more before a storm. They may be reacting to a sudden drop in air pressure or the electrical charge of the air.” Dogs with storm phobias may also react badly to fireworks or other loud noises.

This seemingly scientific statement has very basic point: that our canine companions heightened senses do not couple well with loud flashes of energy. I can’t even begin to imagine a dog’s perception of the crackling boom, so loud and hot that it’ll make the fire alarm go off!
Well, okay, the cause of dogs’ loathing for thunderstorms was pretty obvious… but, now it is time to figure out some solutions.

USA Today lists these helpful steps to preparing your dog for storm braveness:

• Handle it early on in your dog's life.
  Storm phobia is considered a progressive behavioral disease, signs like this should not be ignored. Each successive thunderstorm season is likely to bring out ever-worsening signs of fear. It's time to take action — NOW.
• Don't heed advice to let her "sweat it out" or not to "baby" her.
  Your dog won't get it when you punish him/her for freaking out. Indeed, it'll likely make her anxiety worse. Providing a positive or distracting stimulus is more likely to calm her down.
• Offer treats, cuddlings and other good stuff when storms happen.
  This method is best employed before the phobia sets in –– as pups. Associating loud booms with treats is never a bad thing, right?
• Let him hide — in a crate.
  Hiding (as in a cave) is a natural psychological defense for dogs. Getting them used to a crate as pups has a tremendous influence on how comfortable they are when things scare them. Having a go-to place for relaxing or hiding away is an excellent approach, no matter what the fear. Another approach to try, whether he's a pup or not:
• Get him away from the noise, and compete with it.
  Creating a comfy place (for the crate or elsewhere) in a room that's enclosed (like a closet or bathroom) may help a great deal. Adding in a loud radio or white noise machine can help, too. Desensitize him.
  Sometimes it's possible to allay the fears by using thunderstorm sound CDs when it's not raging outside. Play it at a low volume while plying him with positive stimuli (like treats and pettings). 
• Ask your veterinarian about drugs.
  Sure, there's nothing so unsavory as the need for drugs to relieve dogs of their fears, but recognize that some fears will not be amenable to any of these other ministrations without drugs. If that's the case, talk to your vet about it –– please. There are plenty of new approaches to drugs that don't result in a zonked-out dog, so please ask!
• Consider seeing a board-certified veterinary behaviorist.
  If nothing else works, your dog should not have to suffer. Seek out the advice of your veterinarian, and, if you've gone as far as you can with him/her, consider someone with unique training in these areas –– perhaps a board-certified veterinary behaviorist.

Be sure not to reward your dog's fear. Treats and cuddles while the dog is displaying fearful behavior will only reinforce the idea that acting anxious will get them rewarded.

Another option is the Thundershirt, a garment that wraps tightly around the dog's torso and reportedly helps to calm them (similar to swaddling for babies). Some of HSEC's foster and adoptive families have reported good results with this product.

I would highly recommend trying a few of the best sounding techniques listed above when the next storm rolls into town. If nothing else, your dog will appreciate your efforts in helping him/ her combat their life-long foe.

Separation Anxiety

Welcome to our 100th post!

Last Friday we promised that today we'd talk about separation anxiety, a common condition in pets that can lead to destructive behavior. Does your dog chew up the house when you're gone? Dig or scratch at doors or windows in a desperate attempt to be reunited with you? Howl, bark, or whine when he's home alone? Forget his potty-training every time you go out for the night?

These are classic symptoms of separation anxiety, a condition which may affect up to 10% of dogs and puppies. Sadly, this condition is a major reason why dogs are left at animal shelters, and rescued pets are at particular risk for developing this type of anxious behavior. We'll look at the symptoms and root causes of separation anxiety and what can be done to address this issue.

A dog is considered to have separation anxiety if negative behaviors occur mainly when the owners are out of the house, whether the separation is for a short or long amount of time. These dogs will greet their owners with particular enthusiasm when they are reunited, and may follow their people from room to room when everyone is home together. Dogs learn the signs that owners are preparing to leave, and those with separation anxiety will respond with over-excitement, depression, or anxiety.

We don't understand completely why some dogs develop this condition and others don't (just like we don't fully understand the same condition in human beings). Dogs are very social and don't like to spend time alone. They also don't react well to changes in routine. Common triggers for separation anxiety are:

• A major change, particularly a negative one like a move, a divorce, a death, or a change in the family structure like a child going away to college
• Situations where the owner goes from spending all day with his pet (like a vacation or extended unemployment) to the dog being left alone for several hours at a time
• A traumatic event, like noise from a fireworks display or time in a boarding facility, that occurs when the dog is alone
• Past experience - many rescue dogs have already experienced losing their people, and may perceive time alone with particular anxiety.

The most important thing to remember when dealing with separation anxiety is this: the dog is not intentionally misbehaving and the behavior cannot be fixed with punishment.

Instead, create positive associations with alone time and build up your dog's confidence that you will always return for him.

• Practice desensitizing your dog to being left alone by leaving him in an empty room. Start with a few moments, then gradually increase the time until the dog is comfortable being alone for several hours. Don't reward your dog for anxious behavior by returning when they are barking, digging, or so on. Come back in when they are calm. Don't encourage clingy, dependent behavior, and routinely spend some time apart even when you are home.
• If the mere action of preparing to leave sets the dog off, practice the routine without leaving so it loses the negative association. Make your lunch, get your keys and your coat - then don't leave. Doing this frequently and in association with events your dog enjoys, like mealtimes, will break the connections that cause your buddy to begin his panicking ritual.
• Don't make a big production out of coming and going. Fussing over the dog during these times just reinforces the idea that coming and going is a big deal. It's ok to say goodbye and to greet and treat the dog when you return, but do so calmly, without a scene. If you are calm, they are more likely to be calm.
• The dog's area should be clean and comfortable. Provide fresh water and a comfy bed.
• Reduce the impact of boredom on this behavior by making sure your pet is well exercised and has access to toys that will distract and entertain them for the duration of your absence.

Continue practicing these simple techniques and give your pet time to adjust to the idea of being alone. For bad cases, create a safe zone where the dog can't be destructive, but isn't contained. The safe zone should still provide toys and distractions. Crating only helps if the dog already has positive associations with the crate. If they hate being in the crate, this is just another hurdle to jump. Dogs can be desensitized to their crates using the techniques described above, but ideally, should not be crated for extended periods. If you are gone all day for work, it's not a great solution.

If you are still having problems, your vet may recommend calming medication. This is for a truly worst-case scenario. Consider other options as well, such as a doggy day-care, hiring a dog walker, or leaving your pet with a friend or family member when you are gone. You may even be able to take your buddy to work with you. There are also many professional trainers that will assist in solving this problem. Choose one with good credentials and references that you feel comfortable working with.

Finally, here are a few things that we don't recommend for separation anxiety:

• Getting another dog - the problem isn't just being alone, it's being apart from you. Worst-case scenario: TWO pets with separation anxiety!
• Leaving the TV or radio on - the dog may come to associate this sound as a safety cue. But it's not an instant solution.
• Obedience training - we recommend such training for everyone. But because separation anxiety isn't a matter of disobedience, it cannot be fixed with obedience training.
• No Bark collars - these deliver an electric shock when the dog barks. This may stop barking (at least for a while), but will not actually solve the problem. The dog will continue to act out in other ways. 
• Punishment!

Fortunately, the majority of dogs can overcome this problem. Follow the steps above, and be patient. It may take some time for your friend to unlearn his negative patterns of behavior, but with love and time, you can overcome separation anxiety.

Have you had a dog with separation anxiety? What worked for you?

Stop the Destruction!

Here at HSEC we can't get enough of this dog shaming blog.

All images in this post from http://dog-shaming.com/

Owners send in pictures explaining their dog's (and sometimes cat's) crimes. It's hysterical! Often, the crime is the destruction of some priceless human artifact.

In order to successfully alter destructive behavior, figure out why your dog is doing it. There are three basic reasons why dogs destroy things: a desire to chew, boredom or misplaced energy, and separation anxiety.

Many dogs just love to chew things - any things. This may be particularly true of puppies and young dogs. This behavior doesn't need to be stopped (since chewing is good for the teeth), just redirected. Give the dog access to a chew toy, either edible or inedible. Treats like bonies or dental bones are designed to clean your buddy's teeth while being used. Dogs who love to chew can't really be expected to give up the activity entirely. And the habit might even save you some money in dental bills.

'I did this'

A bored dog will go beyond simple chewing to directed destruction. They may also bark excessively, run aimlessly around your house or yard, or just have a total lack of interest in you or their toys. Dogs need mental stimulation just like we do! Their destruction isn't naughtiness, it is a desperate attempt to stave off boredom. High-energy dogs may have particular difficulties in this area.

The easiest way to reverse boredom is to have a consistent walking and exercise schedule appropriate to your pet's needs. Try an agility course, a doggie sport, or incorporate your workout with theirs (just be mindful that most dogs will keep going far past the point when they need to rest, so watch for signs of exhaustion).

'I try to chew my way out when my parents are gone'

It's also important to work your pet's mind. Rotate their toys and introduce games like hiding treats around the house or employing a toy that requires the dog to manipulate the item in a certain way in order to receive a treat. Teach your dog a new trick, or sign up for a training course. Canine Good Citizen certification is a great goal to aim for. Mental exercise can be just as rewarding and exhausting as physical exercise.

Many dogs are stuck inside all day while the owner is at work. If your budget allows, consider a doggie daycare or hiring a dog walker. These professionals will ensure that your buddy is well-exercised and socialized.

If boredom isn't addressed, it can turn into a whole host of anxiety-related behaviors, including the last major reason for the destruction of your house: separation anxiety. Separation anxiety is pretty easy to spot. If your dog only chews up the furniture when you are gone, that's separation anxiety. This may also come with a host of other nervous behaviors - clinginess, whining, refusing to eat, barking, urinating/defecating inside, and so on.

Come back next Friday to learn about addressing separation anxiety in your pet! In the meantime, we want to know - has your dog ever destroyed anything? Tell us your horror stories in the comments.

When to Call the Vet

by Anna Geletka

I could tell my cat Fletcher wasn't feeling well. He couldn't find a comfortable position, he was refusing food, and he hopped in and out of the litter box every few minutes without anything to show for it. As the night continued, he began to cry and moan when his stomach was touched.

Like many pet owners, I worry over when to call the vet. I don't want to haul the cat around - and pay the exam fees - for the feline equivalent of the common cold.  But Fletcher was only getting more miserable. Finally, around midnight, I'd had enough. We headed to the emergency vet.

The diagnosis was a bladder obstruction, a relatively common condition for male cats (and dogs) that can lead to death in as little as 24 hours. Fletcher was already in the beginning stages of kidney failure. If I had waited until the next morning to call my regular vet, my kitty would have been in very serious trouble. After 36 hours at the vet, and further medication and care upon returning home, Fletcher has made a full recovery. I have no regrets about calling the vet - I only wish I had done it sooner.

Deciding when to call the vet might be one of the most important decisions a pet owner will make for their animal's well being. It's important for all pets to have regular wellness visits with the doctor at least once a year. But there will also be times when pets need to see the vet because they are ill or injured. Read on to find out how to determine if it's time to make the call.

Every pet has their own normal, and it's important for you to know what is normal for your little friend. For example, Fletcher rarely hides, and although I am granted the occasional snuggle, he isn't very cuddly overall. But when he's sick, he's either hiding under the bed or planted firmly on the nearest lap. Neither of these behaviors would be odd for some cats, but for Fletcher, they signal discomfort.

Similarly, your pet has his own tell-tale signs of illness and his own normal routine. Pay attention to where your pet likes to spend their time (under the couch? on a favorite bed?), their reaction to food (do they wolf it down? Pick delicately?), how often and how much they drink, and their toilet habits. Some pets may get occasional bouts of diarrhea, and this is nothing to be concerned about. For others, diarrhea is quite rare, and thus will suggest that something else may be going on.

Of course, once you notice an unusual behavior, it's very tempting to pick up the computer and start Googling away. Resist! There's a lot of great information online, but without an expert to connect the dots, you won't be able to make an accurate or useful diagnosis. And of course, don't try to medicate your pet on your own, especially with human medicine. Just one Tylenol can be fatal to a cat.

At the bottom of this post is a list of symptoms that should be addressed by a vet, either on an emergency basis or by appointment. Choose a vet whose diagnosis and treatment you can trust, and develop a good relationship with them. After all, they're responsible for keeping your best friend safe and healthy.

Finally, trust your instincts. You know your pet better than anyone else. If you think something is wrong with them, don't ignore that feeling.

Call or go to the clinic IMMEDIATELY for:

• Dizziness or loss of consciousness
• Seizures
• Swollen abdomen (especially in dogs)
• Difficulty breathing
• Blue, white, or very pale gums (a sign of low blood pressure, shock, internal bleeding, anemia, or other serious problems)
• Trauma related injuries (lacerations, bite wounds, fractures, dislocations, and blunt trauma) - for a small wound it may be ok to wait until normal business hours, but in general it's best to have these checked out to prevent serious consequences like infection or internal bleeding.
• Signs of acute severe pain, like loud, continuous cries. 

Make an appointment for:

• Protracted vomiting or diarrhea
• Malaise and lethargy
• Persistent congestion, cough, wheezing, or panting
• Appetite loss
• Weight loss
• Toilet problems: blood in the urine, difficulty passing urine or stool, or inappropriate toileting (outside the litter box, for example)
• Lameness or weakness with no obvious explanation
• Unexplained bleeding, especially if it does not stop quickly on its own
• Dry coat, flaking skin, or excessive scratching
• Increased water intake and urination
• Skin masses, lumps, and bumps

And, in general, any symptom, even a mild one, that persists or worsens for 48 hours should be checked out by your vet. If in doubt, give them a call.

Jog A Dog!

On Wednesday we posted a picture of Brittany the puppy with her whole head in a bucket. What could have made this energetic little pup so tired?

Jog A Dog!

Welcome to our latest program, a joint initiative between HSEC, Intone Fitness, and Children' Health Services designed to help your kids and our dogs get some exercise and socialization. Every Saturday, a group consisting of kids ages 11+ meets at our facility and is matched up with a dog that they can handle.

The six-week program was initially designed to help children who have specific health goals or who might need an extra incentive to get moving, but anyone is welcome!

Our dynamic kid-puppy duos first head out to the field behind the facility, where they complete a 1/2 mile walk/jog. Returning to the building, the kids are led in calisthenics, performing jumping jacks, sit ups, and so on, with lots of opportunities to praise and pet the tired dog sitting at their feet. Finally, the kids lead the dogs through agility course training.


So far the program has been a success, and guaranteed to leave both kids and dogs ready for an afternoon nap. Though, as anyone with a child or a puppy can tell you, you can't keep a youngster down for long. After a quick power nap, our puppies are once again excited to greet afternoon visitors.

Positive interactions help puppies to become properly socialized, and will ensure that these dogs are child-friendly. In fact, four doggie participants in the program have already been adopted!

If you're looking for a good family dog, why not ask about a Jog A Dog alum?


In other sports news, September 1st will launch us into another ECU football season, and HSEC will once again be running a concession stand during the games. We always need volunteers for this fundraiser. It's a great one for a group. If your office or club is looking for some social service opportunities, why not take over our stand for a game? Individuals, couples, or families are also welcome. If you'd like to volunteer, contact Katie Benson at hsecvolunteer@gmail.com

And we'll see you at the game!

Take Your Cat to the Vet Week Aug 18-25

Just warming up the stethoscope, doc...

Petfinder has declared this week Take Your Cat to the Vet Week, and we're happy to add our support to that effort. Just like any other critter, your cat will benefit from regular check ups and preventative care.

If you only take your kitty to the vet when they are sick, you may be shortchanging the animal - and yourself. Regular checkups can nip illness in the bud and can even help you spend less money overall. A vet may notice symptoms that you would overlook. So give your cat the best, healthiest life possible - a visit every six months is recommended by the American Veterinary Association, though it's possible to push this to a yearly appointment.

At your semi-annual or annual checkup, you will have an opportunity to chat with the vet techs and the veterinarian about your cat's mood, activity level, diet, weight, symptoms, and anything else related to their well being. Kitty will get a general examination, which differs slightly from one office to the next but which will probably include a weigh-in, heart and breathing check, palpation to make sure that there is no swelling or pain in the cat's body, and overall appearance (skin, coat, ears, teeth, eyes, and so on). The vet will also discuss vaccines with you to help determine which ones are best for your pet, and administer if appropriate.

Palpation to check for swelling or tender areas

The first (and last) step to a successful vet visit is transport in a safe carrier. If getting your snookums into the darn thing is a particular struggle in your house, get her used to the carrier by leaving it out and available, with treats, toys, and soft blankets inside. Don't treat the carrier as a big deal, and hopefully your cat will grow to see the carrier as a safe and neutral environment. But even if you have to recruit some friends to (gently) stuff your cat into the crate, it needs to be in one! Top loading carriers are easier to get a reluctant cat into, so look for one with both front and top openings.

Try a top-loading carrier

You may want to load the cat in the carrier and take them for brief car rides to get them used to the idea. If the cat arrives at the vet stressed out, it can set the tone for the rest of the appointment.

Bring a couple treats and toys with you to the visit. Break out the big guns with a treat that the cat rarely gets, like chicken, salmon, or squeezy cheese. An animal that will take a treat is, generally speaking, less stressed. Keep calm, move slowly, and speak softly. Allow the vet tech and vet to control and handle your cat, unless you are specifically asked to assist and feel comfortable doing so. Skillful handling will keep the cat calmer and move the exam along more quickly.

Many vets also allow 'happy visits', when the animal can come into the vet not for a checkup or procedure, but just to get used to the routine and receive attention and affection from the staff. Ask your vet if they support this practice. In extreme cases of vet-phobia, the doctor might recommend a mild tranquilizer, but the majority of cats will not need drugs. Good experiences at the vet will help you to nurture good health for the rest of your cat's life.

King of the House

by Beau Dove

Playful, energetic, instinctual, and interested; these are all words that describe a typical house cat. “The cat is the king of the house” seems to be a universal understanding among indoor cat owners. They jump from chair to chair looking for laps to claim and pounce on any opportunity to start a playful reactionary game.

But what if your indoor cat seems to have lost his/her delightful spunkiness? I have seen how cats blend into the house to which they lay claim. We as humans are constantly occupied, running in and out of the homes, overlooking the cat as it becomes one with the furniture. The routines that we practice in order get comfortable and wind down can make for a very boring environment. The term “fat house cat” is a well-known generalization of those indoor felines that have become ever-so content with their seat in the sun. If you prefer a cat that shares the characteristics of a big pillow, no harm against you. However, there are a few simple ways to regain that kitten constantly on an adventure in their newly claimed kingdom. 

A good scratching post allows your cat to stretch fully

• Turn on some music when you’re out of the house.
• Put a bird feeder next to their favorite window. 
• On tame weather days, open a screened in window to give them a taste of the outdoors.  If possible, allow access to a safely screened in porch.
• There are a variety of fun toys and obstacles that are specifically designed for indoor cats. Balls with food inside are a sure-fire way to keep your cat entertained. Laser pointers are another big hit for many cats.
• Switch up your cat's toys every so often, even if this just means a new ball of paper or string.
• Try growing a little cat grass - many cats love to chew on this edible toy.
• If you have enough room, an obstacle course or play space would give them a specific place to cure their desires for climbing and perching. Cats love to be up high looking down on us mortals.
• Invest in a good scratching post that is tall enough for the cat to stretch out fully. If your cat ignores the post, spread a little catnip on it to get his attention.

Consider adding wall shelves for your cat to perch on.

Remember, if you are gone a lot then the time they get to spend with you is very precious! Although you may have had a long day, I am sure that the both of you will benefit from a little playtime. I suggest that you challenge your house cat for dominance of the throne! With toys and games, make them prove that they are indefinitely more agile and witty than you. Make some noise! Cats are fully interested in what you have to say and they definitely are fans of your favorite Pandora station. Of course, invite friends over as much as possible to allow your cat some time to mingle and show off their house.

One final suggestion is to find them a friend. Having another cat or even a dog present will be some extra effort but it would definitely add some excitement to the home. Just make sure that you are ready to take on the additional responsibility, and read up on how best to add a new pet to the household. Don't rely on the new addition to keep your pet company - they still want attention from you as well. But for the right cat and the right house, a second feline can sometimes be just the solution to kitty boredom.

I hope that these suggestions help in the efforts to maintain or regain your house cat’s interest. As you can see, there are many solutions to this problem.  Good luck, and may you all fulfill your duty to entertain the “king of the house”.

Pack Up Your Paws, Pt 1: Planning Your Trip

Vacations are always much more fun with your best friend. Just because your best friend has four legs, doesn’t mean s/he should be left at home. It is becoming more and more popular for pets to tag along on vacations. With just a bit of research and planning ahead, you and your pet can share the vacation memories together.

Before you travel anywhere, stop in the veterinarian’s office for a general check-up and to obtain a health certificate dated within 10 days of departure. Make sure you bring along vaccination records, your pet’s medical history, and any medication they will need. On your pet’s collar you should include an ID tag with your name and contact information, as well as your vacation destination. Microchipping your pet would also be very wise. You can read our post on microchipping here.

Traveling can be stressful enough for your pet, so crate train before you leave home. Most likely, at some point during your vacation you’ll need to keep your pet in a crate of some sort, whether that is during travel or once you reach your destination. Pet-friendly hotels may require your pet to be crated at night or anytime left alone in the room. Make it comfortable with blankets or towels on the bottom, and some familiarities of home, such as a favorite toy.

Think about your budget. Traveling with a pet will often save you money by foregoing expensive pet boarding and kennel fees, but don’t think it will be cheap. Airlines and hotels won’t accommodate your pet for free; there’s always a pet fee of some sort.

When planning your vacation, make sure all of your activities include your pet as well. What is the point in bringing them along if they’re just going to be left behind anyway? If you find yourself wanting to spend a pet-free day, find a local pet spa/day care, pet hotel/kennel, or some way to keep your pet safe and entertained during the day. If you’re staying at a pet-friendly location they should have information on local pet-friendly activities.

The planning process is when you should also take some time to consider if your pet will benefit from traveling with you. Many pets love heading out on the road, while others can be very stressed from the change (cats in particular). Know your pet and their limits - and if you are confident that everyone will have a good time, go have some fun!

If you're traveling this weekend or next week for the 4th of July, remember that more pets are lost on the 4th than any other day during the year. Make plans for your pets to be safely and securely contained during the firework displays in particular.


This is the first of our two-part post on traveling with your pets. You can read Part 2 here.

For more information about pet-friendly travel tips and destinations check out these links:

Pet Hotels of America (http://www.pethotelsofamerica.com/)

Bring Fido (http://www.bringfido.com/)

Dog Friendly (http://www.dogfriendly.com/)

Pet Vacation Homes (http://www.petvacationhomes.com/)